Adventures in the Rockies:  A Guide to Rocky Mountain National Park

Nestled in the majestic Front Range of the Rockies in Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) offers a stunning display of mountainous landscapes, diverse wildlife, and awe-inspiring vistas that attract millions of visitors each year. Spanning over 265,000 acres, this vast park is a playground for adventurers and nature lovers alike. 

It’s the “highest” park in the states with 77 peaks over 12,000 feet. The highest being Long Peak at 14,259. Established in 1915, Rocky Mountain National Park has become one of the most visited national parks in the United States with between 4 to 4.5 million visitors annually. 

RMNP is a testament to the rugged beauty of the American West. Amazing scenery along with the wildlife, beautiful lakes and waterfalls, 350 miles of hiking trails, alpine sites, and millions of stars will make you want to visit over and over again.

We were lucky enough to camp in this amazing park for 6 nights and upon arrival, there was a herd of elk to welcome us to the campground.  It’s one of the most stunning national parks in America. you should have this park on your bucket list. 

This is what we did and learned from our experience along the way.

Time Entry Tickets

Let’s get this over with first. Many people are talking about these tickets with good and bad experiences. First I will explain what they are all about then I will give you some tips to help you get tickets.

What are Timed Entry Tickets?

Timed entry tickets are reservations required for entry into Rocky Mountain National Park during certain times of the year. These tickets are in addition to the park entrance fee.

When are Timed Entry Tickets Required?

Timed entry tickets are typically required from Memorial Day Weekend through mid-October. The specific dates and times can vary from year to year, so it’s essential to check the park’s official website for the most current information.

How to Obtain Timed Entry Tickets?

1. Online Reservations: Tickets can be reserved through Recreation.gov
2. Release Schedule: Tickets are released in two phases:
   • Advance Reservations: Available starting one month in advance on the first of the month. For example, tickets for July are available starting June 1. (May and June tickets are released on May 1)
   • Short-Term Reservations: Released at 7 p.m. the day before the entry date.

Note: 60% of tickets are released during advanced reservations and 40% are released the night before.

Types of Timed Entry Permits

1. Bear Lake Road Corridor plus Full Park Access: Allows access to the Bear Lake Road Corridor and the rest of the park. You will need these tickets if you enter this area from 5 am to 6 pm.
2. Rest of Park (Excluding Bear Lake Road Corridor): Allows access to areas of the park outside of the Bear Lake Road Corridor. You will need these tickets if you enter this area anytime between 9 am and 2 pm.

Entry Windows

• Tickets have specific entry windows (e.g., 9 a.m. to 12 p.m.). Visitors must enter the park within their designated time window but can stay in the park for the rest of the day once they have entered.

Fees

• The timed entry reservation itself is $2 a day and visitors still need to pay the standard park entrance fee, which is $30 per vehicle for a one-day pass, $35 for a seven-day pass, or $70 for an annual pass. 

Important Details

• Vehicle Access: Each reservation is valid for one vehicle and all its occupants.
• Cancellations: Reservations can be canceled up to 24 hours in advance but your money ($2 fee) is not refundable.

Special Considerations

• Winter Season: Typically, timed entry tickets are not required outside the peak summer months, but this can change based on park management decisions.
• Flexibility: If plans change, adjusting or canceling reservations as soon as possible is recommended to avoid penalties and allow other visitors to use the slot.

*********************BE CONSIDER**************************

If your plans change please cancel your timed-entry tickets as soon as possible. Let others have the slots so they can visit the park. Just remember you would want the same consideration to obtain your tickets!!

For the most current information and to make timed-entry reservations, visit the Rocky Mountain National Park on Recreation.gov.

Tips to make your visit better

Timed-Entry Tickets

Here are some ideas to help you be able to obtain timed-entry tickets:

• Be on your computer 10-15 minutes before you can purchase tickets, Make sure you are signed into your account and you have a credit card in your account for payment.
• Also, be signed on the Regreation.gov app and signed into your account.
• Keep refreshing your page as the time to purchase gets closer.
• When tickets open up go to the days you’re looking for as fast as possible and place in your cart.
• If you are purchasing Bear Lake Road tickets add that ticket first as they will go faster than the other tickets.
• You can not hesitate you have to have a plan before your ticket time begins
• If you have signed in on the app use the app or computer whatever comes first as you may have to wait to purchase your tickets.

I used these tips at several parks that required tickets in the past few years and always got the tickets I was looking for. 

Note: If you do not plan to go to the Bear Lake area on all your days (add them to your cart first) but be consider buying the regular time ticket for the other areas so all can enjoy this beautiful area of the park.

I will say this again:

If your plans change cancel your tickets so someone else can enjoy the park.

If you don’t get the tickets you’re looking for check the recreation site often as people change their plans and cancel tickets all the time. These tickets will go back on sale immediately for your purchase.

One more thing about timed-entry tickets is that although they are a pain they do help with crowds in the parks. They have become necessary since the pandemic when a lot of people discovered our beautiful national parks. We have always traveled to national parks and can’t believe the crowds we have seen in the last few years. Last year we were in Glacier when tickets were needed at the beginning of our trip and it made the experience must nicer. So even though I hate them too they do serve their purpose.

Altitude

Being from New York and living at sea level the altitude was a problem for us even though we were in other areas in South Dakota and Wyoming before heading to Rocky Mountain National Park.

You need to give your body time to adjust. It is recommended to take 2 to 3 days to let your body get used to the high altitude. If you said to feel sick it is recommended to return to lower levels. This list will give you ideas to help avoid altitude sickness:

• drink plenty of water
• eat carbohydrates
• avoid alcohol
• limit cigarettes
• avoid medication such as sleeping pills

Weather Changes

The weather in this park can change at any time. I found that the days were sunny until sometime in the afternoon when the rain came in and a good chance of thunderstorms appeared. Be prepared for the weather changes and always bring rain gear with you. I can almost guarantee you will use it during your stay!

Also, temperature varies from day and night so always bring extra layers with you as well as wear sturdy shoes while hiking.

Bus Park Shuttle Service

The shuttle bus system in Rocky Mountain National Park is designed to alleviate traffic congestion and reduce the environmental impact within the park, especially during the busy summer months when visitor numbers are at their highest. Using the shuttle system allows visitors to enjoy the park without the hassle of driving and finding parking at popular trailheads and attractions. Here’s a detailed overview of the shuttle system:

Shuttle Routes

Rocky Mountain National Park offers several shuttle routes that cater to different areas of the park:

1. Hiker Shuttle: Connects the Estes Park Visitor Center to the Park & Ride on Bear Lake Road. This is particularly useful as parking at trailheads can fill up early in the day. From the Park & Ride, visitors can access several other shuttle routes that go deeper into the park.
2. Bear Lake Route: This shuttle runs from the Park & Ride to Bear Lake, one of the most popular destinations in the park. Stops include popular trailheads such as Bierstadt Lake, Glacier Gorge, and Bear Lake itself.
3. Moraine Park Route: Operating from the Park & Ride, this route travels through Moraine Park, stopping at campgrounds and trailheads, including those for popular hikes in the Moraine Park area.

Note: You will need tickets for the hiker shuttle leaving Estes Park. You can get up to 4 tickets (free) a day for a $2 transaction fee. These tickets must be purchased through the recreation.gov shuttle page.

Operating Season and Hours

The shuttles typically operate from late May through early October, aligning with the peak visitor season. The shuttles start running early in the morning and continue until late evening, with frequencies varying by route and demand but generally ranging from every 15 minutes to every 30 minutes.

Benefits of Using the Shuttle

• Convenience: The shuttle service is free with park admission and allows visitors to avoid the often stressful experience of finding parking at busy trailheads.
• Accessibility: The shuttle makes the park more accessible to those who may not wish to, or cannot, drive within the park.
• Enhanced Experience: Using the shuttle can lead to a more relaxed visit, letting passengers enjoy the scenery without the distraction of driving.

Tips for Using the Shuttle

• Plan Ahead: During peak times, shuttles can be full. It’s wise to start your day early to ensure you get a spot on the shuttle, especially if you plan to hike from popular trailheads like Bear Lake.
• Bring Essentials: Since you might be on the shuttle for a while or waiting for one, bring water, snacks, sunscreen, and any other essentials you might need for a day out in the park.
• Check the Schedule: Always check the latest shuttle schedules on the park’s official website or at visitor centers as times and routes can change due to weather conditions or other factors.

Things to do Rocky Mountain National Park

Scenic Drive on Trail Ridge Road

This scenic drive on Trail Ridge Road (US34) goes through Rocky Mountain National Park between the town of Estes Park and Grand Lake. It is the highest continuous paved road in North America. This scenic drive offers panoramic views of the Rockies at every turn and numerous pullouts for visitors to stop and soak in the landscape. The road itself reaches an elevation of 12,183 feet providing a rare opportunity to experience the alpine tundra without the strenuous hike.

The 48-mile-long road crosses the Continental Divide and takes you 11 miles above the treeline. You will experience the alpine tundra along the way. Although beautiful, this road may not be for everyone. 

Due to the harsh weather in the Rockies, the road is only open from Memorial Day weekend to October Day weekend, but it depends on the weather. At times it even had to close in June due to snow.

There are many scenic overlooks to stop at as well as some hikes to take. The road doesn’t have guide rails so caution must always be taken when driving.

I was very surprised to see this very curvy road, narrow at times with absolutely no guide rails, so if you are afraid of heights maybe this road is not for you.

Tip: Before driving this road it’s advised to check the trail ridge road status at the National Park website.

Things you need to be aware of while driving Trail Ridge Road

• The Alpine Visitor Center is about halfway between Estes Park and Grand Lake. You can get food and drinks here and there are restrooms too.
• You will need to watch for wildlife crossing along the road as elk and bighorn sheep head to the highlands in summer where it is cooler.
• The climate is very dry so make sure you always stay hydrated.
• It gets cooler the higher you go so much sure you have proper clothing with you
• You will experience the alpine tundra along the way. This is a very fragile ecosystem so please stay on the trails.
• The drive takes about 2 to 2 ½ hours depending on how much you stop along the way, however, if you were to drive around from Estes Park to Grand Lake it would take you about 6 hours.
• There are many places to stop to have a picnic on the road.
•  visitors might spot wildlife such as elk, bighorn sheep, and eagles, especially during the quieter hours of early morning or late evening.

Drive Old Fall River Road

Old Fall River Road (link) is a must-see when visiting Rocky Mountain National Park. This one-way, 9-mile narrow dirt road begins outside the entrance to the park and runs parallel to the Fall River. There are no guide rails and is very steep at times. The road starts at 8,558’ above sea level and ends at the Alpine Visitors Center which is over 12,000 ft. above sea level.

We allowed a full day for our trip on Old Fall River Road. We drive a 23’ long crew cab pickup truck and at times we were unable to make the turns without maneuvering our truck several times. It is recommended that no vehicles over 25’ be on this curvy road and absolutely no trailers.

It felt like we were ascending into heaven with the steady climb, the beauty of our surroundings was magnificent. You experience three life zones (ecosystems) on your journey: montane, subalpine, and alpine tundra. The higher you go; you get to see remains of the glaciers and the harsh environment.

Stop along the way on the many side areas where you can take a short hike to Chasm Falls and also other paths as you climb and see the glacier action.

For more information and to learn about the different ecosystems read my post about our journey up Old Fall River Road.

Bear Lake Area

Bear Lake is a starting point for numerous hiking trails and is renowned for its accessible yet stunning beauty. The area around the lake provides easy trails perfect for families and those seeking a leisurely stroll, as well as access to more challenging hikes like the trail to Hallett Peak. The reflective waters of Bear Lake offer incredible photographic opportunities, especially early in the morning when the surrounding peaks are mirrored on its surface.

Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park

Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park offers a wealth of opportunities for exploring diverse landscapes ranging from dense forest and alpine tundra to rugged mountain peaks. With over 300 miles of trails, the park caters to all levels of hiking ability, from short, easy walks suitable for families to challenging backcountry treks for experienced adventurers. Here’s a comprehensive overview of what hikers can expect when exploring this iconic national park:

Types of Hikes

1. Family-Friendly Hikes:
   • Bear Lake Nature Trail: An easy, 0.6-mile loop that offers stunning lake views and is wheelchair accessible. It’s an excellent introduction to the park’s natural beauty.
   • Sprague Lake Loop: Another easy and accessible trail, this 0.9-mile loop features panoramic mountain views and a well-maintained path, perfect for families and photographers.
2. Moderate Hikes:
   • Emerald Lake Trail: A popular 3.6-mile round trip hike that takes you past Nymph Lake and Dream Lake to Emerald Lake, with spectacular views of Hallett Peak.
   • Deer Mountain: A 6-mile round trip hike offering a moderate climb and rewarding summit views over Estes Park and the Continental Divide.
3. Strenuous Hikes:
   • Sky Pond: A 9-mile round trip hike passing by waterfalls, alpine lakes, and the stunning Lake of Glass, ending at Sky Pond, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Sharkstooth and Taylor Peak.

Read all about hiking in these areas in our article about Hiking the Bear Lake Trailhead.

Wildlife Viewing        

Elk, elk, and herds of elk. What a beautiful sight to see herd after herd of elk while driving through the park.

In addition to elk, wildlife in the park include bighorn sheep, numerous mule deer and white-tail deer, moose, black bear, and mountain lion as well as 55 species of mammals and over 275 types of birds.

Elk is seen throughout the park while moose are spotted mostly on Kawuneeche Valley and the Grand Lake areas. There are few black bears in the park and most are spotted in the campgrounds and you would be extremely lucky to see a mountain lion.

All of these animals are wild and should be treated as such, so stay your distance from them, and please do not feed them. Let’s keep them wild.

Best Areas for Wildlife Viewing

• Moraine Park: This wide, open valley is excellent for viewing elk and deer, especially in the early morning and late evening.
• Kawuneeche Valley: Located on the park’s west side, this valley is a prime spot for seeing moose.
• Trail Ridge Road: Offers opportunities to view a range of wildlife, including elk, bighorn sheep, and marmots, particularly in the alpine areas.
• Horseshoe Park: Another great location for elk, and occasionally, coyotes and black bears.

Tips for Successful Wildlife Viewing

• Be Patient: Wildlife watching can require patience. Early morning and late evening are typically the best times for activity.
• Stay Safe: Always use binoculars or a telephoto lens for safe viewing. Keep a minimum distance of 75 feet from most wildlife, and at least 120 feet from predators like bears.
• Be Quiet and Respectful: Move slowly and quietly to increase your chances of sightings and to not disturb the animals.
• Use Appropriate Equipment: Bring binoculars, a good camera with a zoom lens, and perhaps a field guide to help identify species.
• Drive Carefully: Many animals are active near roads, especially at dawn and dusk. Drive slowly and watch for crossing wildlife.

Wild Basin Area

The Wild Basin Area of Rocky Mountain National Park is a less frequented but equally stunning part of the park, located in the southeastern region near the village of Allenspark. It offers a rugged, wilderness-like experience with dense forests, cascading waterfalls, and serene alpine lakes. This area provides a quieter alternative to the more crowded parts of the park, making it ideal for those seeking solitude and a closer connection with nature.

Trails

Wild Basin boasts a network of trails that range from relatively easy hikes to more strenuous backcountry adventures. Popular trails include:

• Ouzel Falls: A moderate 5.4-mile round-trip hike that leads to the beautiful Ouzel Falls. Along the way, hikers pass Copeland Falls and Calypso Cascades, making the journey as rewarding as the destination.
• Bluebird Lake: A more challenging 12-mile round-trip hike that offers stunning views and ends at the scenic Bluebird Lake, nestled below Ouzel Peak.
• Thunder Lake: An 11.6-mile round-trip hike that takes you deep into the heart of Wild Basin, ending at the serene Thunder Lake, which is surrounded by towering peaks.

The area is known for its rugged mountain peaks, dense coniferous forests, and a series of cascading waterfalls. The landscape is dramatically shaped by past glacial activity, which has left behind a rugged, beautiful terrain.

Wild Basin can be accessed by vehicle via a narrow, winding road that leads to the Wild Basin Trailhead. The road is generally open from late May through October, depending on weather conditions.

At the trailhead, there is a ranger station, restrooms, and limited parking. The parking area fills up quickly during the summer months, so arriving early is advisable.

Note: There is no hiker shuttle in this area.

Sheep Lake

Sheep Lakes is a popular area in Rocky Mountain National Park, located along Fall River Road near the park’s Fall River Entrance.

Wildlife Viewing 

Sheep Lakes is best known for its wildlife, particularly the bighorn sheep that are often seen here from late May through mid-August. The sheep are drawn to the area’s natural salt licks. Visitors are likely to spot herds grazing or resting near the lakes, providing excellent opportunities for photography and observation from a safe distance.

Scenery 

The area around Sheep Lakes offers panoramic views of Horseshoe Park and the surrounding high peaks. The setting is picturesque, with the lakes reflecting the sky and mountains, making it a peaceful place for enjoying nature.

Accessibility

Sheep Lakes is easily accessible as it is located right off of Old Fall River Road, a historic, one-way dirt road that winds up to Fall River Pass at an elevation of 11,796 feet. The road itself is a scenic drive with numerous pullouts and vistas.

Best Time to Visit

The best time for bighorn sheep viewing is early in the morning or later in the evening, as these are the times when the sheep are most active. Visiting during the peak months from late May through mid-August increases the chances of sightings.

Facilities

There are no major facilities like visitor centers or restrooms at the Sheep Lakes themselves, but there are facilities at nearby visitor centers and other areas along the highway.

Tips for Your Visit

• Bring Binoculars: To safely observe the bighorn sheep and other wildlife, bring a pair of binoculars or a camera with a good zoom lens.
• Check Road Status: Since Old Fall River Road is a seasonal road typically open from late May to November, depending on weather conditions, it’s wise to check the road status with park authorities before planning your visit.
• Respect Wildlife: Always respect wildlife by observing from a distance and not attempting to feed or interact with the animals.

Horseback Riding

Glacier Creek Stables and Moraine Park Stables are both located within Rocky Mountain National Park, near Estes Park, Colorado. They offer unique horseback riding experiences in the scenic surroundings of the park. Here’s a bit more about each:

• Glacier Creek Stables: Situated near Sprague Lake, this stable offers rides ranging from 2 hours to a full day. The trails cover beautiful terrain, suitable for both beginners and experienced riders. It’s a great option for those looking to explore the park’s natural beauty on horseback.
• Moraine Park Stables: Located near the Moraine Park Campground, these stables provide shorter rides that are perfect for those staying in the campground or nearby. With options ranging from 2 to 8 hours, it accommodates various skill levels and schedules.

Both stables provide a fantastic way to see Rocky Mountain National Park from a different perspective, whether you are a seasoned rider or trying horseback riding for the first time.

Holzwarth Historic Site

The Holzwarth Historic Site, also known as the Never Summer Ranch, is located in the Kawuneeche Valley on the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park, near Grand Lake, Colorado. This site offers a fascinating glimpse into the early 20th-century life of homesteaders and dude ranchers.

The site has been preserved to showcase a series of historical buildings and cabins that represent the lifestyle and operations of the ranch from the 1920s to the 1950s.

The Holzwarth Historic Site is accessible via a scenic ½-mile interpretive trail which offers insights into the life and history of the area. The site is open year-round, but guided tours and most activities are available from mid-June to Labor Day. During this period, visitors can explore the original buildings and participate in various ranger-led programs about its rich history.

Camping

Camping in Rocky Mountain National Park offers an immersive way to experience the breathtaking natural beauty of the Colorado Rockies. There are five developed campgrounds, each offering different environments and amenities.

Moraine Park Campground

The largest and most popular campground in the park, Moraine Park offers 244 sites. It provides incredible views of the surrounding mountains and is a prime location for wildlife viewing, especially elk. It has flush toilets and is open year-round, although services are limited in the winter.

Glacier Basin Campground

Located at an elevation of 8,500 feet, this campground has 150 sites and offers a mix of tent and RV camping. It provides spectacular views of the Continental Divide and access to numerous hiking trails. Flush toilets and potable water are available.

Aspenglen Campground

This smaller campground has 53 sites and is open from late May through September. It is located near the Fall River entrance and offers a more intimate camping experience with access to both the Fall River and the main area of the park.

Timber Creek Campground

Situated on the park’s west side, Timber Creek has 98 sites and is the only campground on this side of RMNP. It tends to be less crowded than the campgrounds on the east side and is near the Kawuneeche Valley, a great area for wildlife viewing.

Longs Peak Campground

Known for its proximity to the Longs Peak trailhead, this tent-only campground is a favorite among hikers aiming to summit Longs Peak. It has 26 sites and is open on a first-come, first-served basis.

Although there are flush toilets in some of these campgrounds, there are no shower facilities in RMNP. You must go to a nearby town to shower.

The sites for RV camping are tight. We have a 34’ RV travel trailer and we were in a parallel site which had very little space to the road. If you can get a pull-thru site I would recommend it although these sites are also tight for larger campers. 

There is no other lodging within the park besides camping

Backcountry Camping

For those seeking a more adventurous experience, RMNP offers extensive backcountry camping options. There are over 120 backcountry campsites throughout the park, accessible only by foot or horseback. These sites provide a true wilderness experience but require a backcountry permit and adherence to strict Leave No Trace principles.

For camping reservations and backcountry permits visit recreation.gov.

Estes Park

Estes Park is the town on the east side of the park, about a two-hour drive from Denver International Airport. It’s the hub for Rocky Mountain National Park’s visitors. It is also a great place for wildlife watchers to see elk that gather in town around the Estes Park Visitor Center. It’s a major hub for visitors seeking information about the area, including Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park. The visitor center serves as the transportation hub for all the free shuttle buses that operate in the area during the summer months.

As there is no lodging in the park other than camping, most people who come to the park stay in Estes Park. There are also campgrounds (privately owned with full hookup) and restaurants and shopping in the area.

Estes Park gets very crowded during the summer peak season. I would recommend making  reservations

Lake Estes is a beautiful section of town where there are boating and fishing as well as many other activities like biking and hiking near the lake and during winter there is ice skating, sledding, and cross-country skiing.

The views of the Rocky Mountains can be seen from the town that accompanies the downtown gardens, aspen groves, wildflowers, and riverwalk.

For information on Estes Park including lodging and restaurants, you can check out their website here.

Grand Lake

Located on the west side of the park, Grand Lake is much smaller than Estes Park. It also offers lodging, restaurants, and other amenities for a great national park stay. It’s known as the quiet side of the Rocky Mountains.

For information on lodging, restaurants, and amenities visit their website here.

Final Thoughts

A trip to Rocky Mountain National Park will be remembered forever. The high mountains, stunning lakes, rushing waterfalls, and wildlife are all reasons to visit.

When John Denver sang “Rocky Mountain High” he was singing the praise of this magnificent place and until you experience it for yourself you could never imagine the beauty of Rocky Mountain National Park.

For more articles on our beautiful National Parks

Shenandoah National Park

Isle Royale National Park

Yellowstone National Park with Kids

Badlands National Park

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